![]() ![]() ![]() It's tricky, and I wish I coiuld take pictures but I was by myself. Then once it's seated, you can rotate it back to where it engages the rods. Now as you drop the section on, you need to rotate the shifter shaft CC. And get ready to drop the rear section on. It's pretty obvious when all the slot are aligned.Īpply sealant (or a new gasket) to the edge. First, pull all the rods so they are in *neuteral*, the middle notch of their travel. ![]() Now, there is a real tricky part to get the shifter shaft to line up with the selector rods. You'll need to set it on something with a holein it so the input shaft can stick through. Now bolt the 2 halves back toghether, make sure to use sealant (I used threebond, Grey or black RTV would probably work.) No pics of that, but once it's toghether stand it on end. It just sits there, and it's pretty obvious which side the bevel goes on. Otherwise, the ring hits the lower shaft retainer ands again won't seat. That open section must be towards the lower shaft. it only goes about 2/3rd of the way around, leaving an *open* section. The hole in the bearing must seat onto this pin or the case won't go back toghether right.Īnd, at the rear of the shaft, there is a snapring around the large bearing. First, there is a dowel pin in the recess for the bearing in the middle/front of the shaft. Now, there are a few important notes to the reassembly. Slide off the seal, and slide the new one on. Double check that you got all the bolts, and split the case. Make sure you haven't forgotten the two that I mentioned above in the rear where the shaft retainer bolts on. Set it on the left side, you'll be lifting up the right half (left half has all the shift rods and forks in it) Remove all the bolts around the edge, and 4 14mm ones that are in the middle, 17 in all. Remove the 2 bolts on the right(as installed on car passenger) side in the bearing retainer around the lower shaft Here's what the *finger* on theend of the shifter shaft that engages them looks like. Take note of how the 3 shifter rods notches are alinged, as you'll need them this way for reassembly. Rotate the shifter rod CounterClockwise to disengage it from the forks and then slide off the rear section. Now remove all 8 14mm bolts holding the rear section to the front case halves. You'll see the shifter shaft, and teh little arm that locks it into the reverse checker(lockout) remove the 10mm bolt that holds that arm in place, careful not to drop it down in there. Next, remove the four bolts on the coverplate on the rear. However this writeup covers only the front seal replacment as it is the only one that HAS TO BE done this way. As well the rear output seal and the crush washers for the neutral and reverse switches are accessible and would make for a FULL reseal. It also would be a good time if one was inclined to replace the diff/axle stub seals, as this way you don't need to remove their retainers or reset backlash. It was $34.17, and replaceing it was super easy while apart and made for better shifts. I believe it was also making for crunchy shifts. I'm sure it was wobbling causing the seal to go. The pilot bearing in the flywheel that supports the very front of the shaft had grenaded, so the bearing in the trans was doing all the work. *****It's worth noting that I also replaced the front shaft bearing (the one with the dowel) since there had been play on that shaft. Thankfully That is not needed to replace the front seal!!! Subaru FSMs show the disassembly as a very tough process, involing removing all the guts of the center diff, etc.ughh. Most would not even replace just this seal, they'd want to rebuild the whole thing for like $3000. ![]() Most tranny shops would chargbe BIG money to disassemble the tranny to replace that seal. So, for all those of you who are suffereing from stinky burning gear oil from a leaky input shaft Front seal on the trans, I thought I'd do this write-up. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |